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1 


STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 


LOS  ANGELES. 


MANUAL  TRAINING  REPRINTS 

Edited  by  CHARLES  A.  BENNETT, 
Professor  of  Manual  Arts,  Bradley  Polytechnic  Institute,  Peoria,  Illinois 

SERIES  A  NUMBER  4 


INEXPENSIVE   BASKETRY 

'2.  7  0  2.  2- 

BY 

WILLIAM  S.  MARTEN 

Department  of  Manual  Arts,  San  Jose,  California,  High  School 


THE    MANUAL    ARTS    PRESS 

PEORIA,  ILLINOIS 


COPYRIGHT, 

WILLIAM    S.   MARTEN, 
1912. 


TS 
•f/0 

Al  3^ 
3 


CONTENTS 

I.        Introduction    . 


1.  Educational  Values   10 

Use  of  local  materials  has  permanent  educational  values. 

Art  and  motor  training  values  go  hand  in  hand. 
The  economic  value  is  in  the  varied  and  practical  uses  for  which 
the  baskets  are  made. 

2.  Practical  Advantages 11 

The    interest    of    all,    the    ease    and    convenience    of    handling,    the 

variety    of    materials    easily    procured    and    adaptable    to    many 
grades,  make  it  an  especially  desirable  form  of  work. 

3.  Equipment    12 

The  tools  can  easily  be  made   by  the  pupils. 

4.  Materials    13 

The  great  variety  of  adaptable  vegetable  fibers,   allow  for   a  wide 

range  in  the  choice  of  material  for  the  coil. 
The   material   for   the   thread   must   be   especially   adaptable   to   the 

basket. 
The    school    and    local    conditions   will    determine    the    gathering   of 

the   materials. 

The   green   material   must   immediately  be   cured. 
The  use  of  cane  is  sometimes  necessary,  the  price  of  which  varies 

greatly. 

Varnish  gives  a  desirable  finish. 
The   use   of    raffia    is   sometimes    advantageous. 

II.      Processes  of  Coiled  Basket  Construction 17 

The  necessary  steps  in  the  processes  of  construction. 

Preparation    for   the   starting. 

Making    the    tie. 

Taking  the  second  stitch. 

Taking  the  third  and  succeeding  stitches  to  complete  the  first  circle. 

Adding  new  strands. 

Making   the    regular   stitches. 

Keeping  uniform  the  space  between  the   stitches   as  the  circles   get 

larger. 

Tying  on  a  new  strand  of  thread. 
Making  the  turn. 
Building  up  the  sides. 
Putting   in    handles. 
Finishing  off  the  top. 
Polishing. 


III.  Outline  for  the  Coiled  Basket  Work 36 

1.  Problems  for  grades. 

2.  Sizes  of  problems. 

3.  Sizes  of  details  and  materials. 

IV.  References — Educational  Values  of  Manual  Training 38 

V.  Bibliography,  Basketry 41 


FOREWORD. 

MOST  of  the  existing  treatises  on  basketry  either  assume  on  the 
part  of  the  reader  some  knowledge  of  the  processes  involved 
or,  by  covering  a  field  unnecessarily  wide,  cumber  the  in- 
dividual teacher  with  material  for  which  he  has  no  practical  use.  The 
author  of  this  little  book  is  to  be  especially  commended  for  limiting 
himself  to  a  few  of  the  elementary  problems  that  confront  every  teacher 
who  attempts  to  deal  with  basketry  in  the  classroom,  and  for  the  skill 
with  which  he  selects  and  presents  the  subject  matter. 

When  this  material  first  appeared  as  a  series  of  articles  in  the 
MANUAL  TRAINING  MAGAZINE  it  attracted  immediate  attention.  The 
continued  interest  and  repeated  inquiries  more  than  justify  its  revision 
and  publication  in  this  more  convenient  form. 

From  a  technical  point  of  view  the  series  of  photographs  constitutes 
a  rather  unusual  achievement  in  the  attempt  to  illustrate  a  sequence 
of  manipulative  operations.  As  has  been  remarked  of  them,  they  are 
"illustrations  which  really  illustrate". 

For  those  who  wish  to  take  up  the  subject  for  further  study,  a 
bibliography  is  added  which  is  believed  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  form 
available  for  general  distribution.  — WILLIAM  T.  BAWDEN. 

New  York  City, 
January   17,    1913. 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY. 

I.     INTRODUCTION. 

'2  7^2.^- 

THE  basketry  herein  described  is  a  result  of  several  years' 
experience  with  such  work  in  the  South — in  the  third  to  the 
sixth  years  of  the  city  schools  of  Durham,  North  Carolina.  It 
has  been  successfully  carried  on  at  slight  expense,  and  has  proved  itself 
to  be  constructive  work  of  real  usefulness.  In  the  illustrations  will  be 
seen  a  number  of  different  kinds  of  baskets,  all  of  wrhich  have  been  found 
entirely  feasible  for  elementary  school  work.  Educators  have  become 
interested  in  the  results  of  this  work,  so  that  teachers  from  other  schools 
have  come  to  learn  the  processes  in  order  that  they  might  introduce  it 
in  their  own  communities.  In  this  way  the  work  has  lately  been 
extended  to  a  number  of  school  systems  thruout  the  state.  It  is 
earnestly  hoped  that  this  description  with  the  aid  of  the  illustrations 
will  enable  teachers  to  get  this  work  successfully  started  in  schools 
where  such  work  is  especially  adaptable.  The  appended  outline  is 
suggestive  of  a  working  plan  for  the  several  grades. 

Special  acknowledgement  is  due  Principal  William  P.  Dawkins  of 
the  West  End  School  of  Durham  who  so  kindly  assisted  and  who  made 
it  possible  to  put  the  basketry  work  in  its  present  form  in  Durham. 
Thanks  and  credit  are  due  many  others  for  criticisms  and  suggestions, 
especially  Charles  Marten,  director  of  Industrial  Arts,  Jewish  Orphan 
Asylum,  Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  Professor  P.  E.  Davidson  of  the  edu- 
cational department  of  Stanford  University,  California. 

ESSENTIAL    VALUES    THE    MAIN    CONSIDERATION. 

It  is  a  decided  advantage  for  any  form  of  handwork  to  be  inex- 
pensive, but  to  have  a  place  in  the  school  curriculum  it  must  be  hand- 
work with  values  that  are  essential  to  both  the  individual  and  the  com- 
munity. All  school  handwork  must  be  that  in  which  children  can  be 
interested,  and  it  must  be  closely  related  to  life  outside  the  school.  The 
special  form  of  constructive  work  herein  described  has  been  tested  in  the 
schools.  The  result  shows  that  children  become  intensely  interested  in 
it,  and  that  it  can  be  vitally  connected  with  their  home  and  community 
life.  From  an  educational  standpoint,  any  form  of  handwork  besides 
being  easily  adaptable  to  school  use,  should  have  values  that  involve  a 


10  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

consideration  of  three  factors :  first,  the  correlative  value  of  the  materials 
used ;  second,  the  development  value  of  the  motor  training  involved ;  and 
third,  the  economic  value  of  the  articles  made. 

EDUCATIONAL  VALUES. 

The  use  of  local  materials  provides  for  a  definite  correlation  with 
the  other  school  subjects.  A  study  of  the  courses  of  basketry  in  the 
schools  thruout  the  country,  when  considered  with  the  surroundings  of 
these  schools,  will  reveal  that  one  particular  advantage  of  this  con- 
structive work  is  almost  entirely  lost  sight  of.  In  most  cases  the 
materials  are  obtained  from  New  York  or  elsewhere,  while  the  valuable 
materials  growing  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  school  are  neglected. 
In  almost  every  locality,  materials  for  basketry  can  be  obtained  near  the 
school.  In  the  Southland,  especially  in  the  localities  of  rich  vegetable 
growth,  the  many  tough  grasses,  pine  needles,  and  like  materials  from 
marsh,  field,  and  wood  around  the  school  house  and  the  children's 
homes,  can  readily  be  gathered  by  the  pupils  themselves.  If  the  materials 
in  this  way  are  obtained  at  first  hand,  rather  than  gotten  from  afar,  a 
permanent  association  of  interest  is  established.  The  child  is  easily  given 
a  broad  knowledge  concerning  such  materials.  Their  use  as  a  primitive 
necessity,  the  nature  of  the  materials  relative  to  their  use,  the  growth  of 
the  plant  life — a  study  of  all  such  factors  give  natural  correlations  with 
other  school  subjects  and  begin  with  things  about  which  the  children 
have  some  knowledge.  When  these  relations  are  made  the  children 
understand  more  clearly  the  means  neqessary  to  secure  the  desired  results. 
This  will  help  the  elementary  school  teacher  to  vitalize  her  work. 

Second :  The  values  in  and  consequent  need  of  motor  training  es- 
pecially in  the  elementary  school  are  now  fully  established.  Basketry 
as  a  form  of  motor  training  in  the  elementary  school  is  valuable  not 
only  because  the  essential  processes  are  simple,  but  because  they  require 
a  very  definite  training  of  the  judgment  in  the  use  of  the  eye  and  the 
hand.  From  the  simple  basic  processes,  they  can  be  made  more  complex 
as  desired.  The  development  obtained  involves  the  following  factors: 
(1),  the  deciding  upon  suitable  materials  for  the  work  in  hand;  (2), 
the  getting  of  even  spaces;  (3),  the  sensing  of  a  strong  outline;  (4), 
the  judging  of  fine  proportions;  (5),  the  obtaining  of  beautiful  color 
harmonies,  such  as  those  formed  by  the  combination  of  the  soft  greens 
of  the  rush,  or  the  rich  grays  and  brown  of  the  pine  needles,  with  the 


INTRODUCTION  11 

subdued  yellow  of  the  palmetto  or  cane,  and  (6),  the  splendid  examples 
of  line  rhythm  as  the  stitches  move  around  and  outward  from  the  center, 
and  mount  around  and  upward  to  the  top.  These  are  art  principles  in 
applied  design  of  a  very  practical  type.  A  well  made  basket,  evenly 
stitched,  of  good  proportion  and  outline  is  evidence  of  the  artistic  merit 
of  this  work.  In  the  classroom  a  few  poorly  made  baskets  and  a  number 
of  well  built  baskets  of  good  outline  and  proportion  as  examples  of  what 
to  avoid  and  what  to  strive  for,  with  suggestions  of  caution  against 
the  one,  and  encouragement  to  strive  for  the  beautiful  in  the  other,  will 
furnish  an  incentive  for  the  pupils  to  strive  for  the  highest  type  of 
workmanship. 

Third:  The  economic  value  is  in  the  varied  and  practical  uses  for 
which  the  baskets  are  made.  If  the  basket  made  has  a  definite  use  in 
which  the  children  are  interested  they  can  be  made  to  feel  that  they  are 
putting  their  own  selves  into  the  work.  Basketry  of  this  kind  includes 
the  making  of  table  mats,  serving  trays,  laundry  hampers,  door  mats, 
fruit  trays,  baskets  for  fruit,  for  church  collections,  for  waste  paper  and 
trash,  for  carrying  lunch,  for  trinkets  and  jewelry  and  almost  any  re- 
ceptacle for  holding  or  carrying  purposes.  Such  baskets  when  thought- 
fully chosen  serve  a  very  practical  use  in  the  community  or  in  the  homes 
of  the  children.  When  the  children  are  taught  to  make  profitable  use  of 
the  raw  materials  that  lie  immediately  at  hand,  they  are  realizing  how  to 
master  their  own  environment.  And  when  this  is  the  making  of  a 
commercially  valuable  article  with  material  that  is  previously  considered 
of  no  value,  there  is  involved  an  important  economic  aspect.  If  the 
school  is  to  prepare  the  children  for  doing  their  share  in  meeting  the 
social  needs  of  the  community,  it  is  of  importance  that  the  children  be 
made  to  realize  this  economic  aspect.  Work,  chosen  with  such  an  aim, 
provides  a  definite  purpose  in  the  minds  of  the  children  toward  which 
their  activities  are  directed.  Therefore  such  activities  cannot  be  aimless. 

PRACTICAL  ADVANTAGES. 

The  interest  of  all,  the  ease  and  convenience  of  handling,  the  variety 
of  materials  easily  procured  and  adaptable  to  many  grades,  make  basketry 
an  especially  desirable  form  of  work.  From  experience  with  this  work 
in  the  school  room :  ( 1 ) ,  it  has  been  found  to  afford  equal  interest  for 
boys  and  girls;  (2),  it  is  clean,  and  practically  dry,  (water  being  needed 
only  when  starting  the  baskets),  (3),  it  is  light  and  easily  handled  by 


12  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

the  younger  children;  (4),  when  carefully  constructed  the  baskets  are 
very  durable;  (5),  the  native  materials  furnish  a  very  prolific  source 
of  supply  so  that  to  the  average  community  the  economic  advantage  of 
this  work  is  a  strongly  appealing  factor.  In  some  communities,  es- 
pecially the  rural  ones,  this  work  can  be  carried  on  with  no  expense 
whatever.  In  other  communities  the  expense  for  equipment  and  main- 
tenance is  very  slight.  Even  in  many  of  the  larger  cities  materials  can 
be  obtained  very  reasonably.  After  the  material  is  located  in  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city  the  only  cost  should  be  that  of  transportation;  (6), 
since  the  cured  raw  material  can  be  piled  up  and  the  baskets  in  the 
process  of  construction  can  be  telescoped,  but  little  space  is  required  for 
storage  purposes;  (7),  the  variety  of  materials  obtainable  and  the 
various  uses  to  which  the  baskets  may  be  put,  afford  a  great  variety  of 
processes  adaptable  for  the  different  grades;  (8),  the  teacher  with  a 
minimum  of  experience  in  such  work  can  carry  it  on  with  satisfactory 
results. 

Various  materials  and  types  of  baskets  afford  a  variety  of  processes. 
Numerous  processes,  more  or  less  explicit,  are  described  in  the  various 
books  on  basketry,  many  of  which  contain  excellent  suggestions  for 
various  types  of  baskets.1  The  discussion  that  follows  will  have  in  mind 
the  various  types  of  baskets,  but  in  order  to  be  definitely  clear,  the 
present  discussion  on  processes  will  deal  only  with  the  type  of  the  con- 
tinuous coiled  basket. 

EQUIPMENT. 

The  tools  needed  are  few  and  very  inexpensive.  The  only  tools 
that  are  absolutely  necessary  are  scissors  or  knife,  and  the  needle,  for 
large  coiled  work.  The  needle  can  be  any  sharp  pointed  instrument  suit- 
able for  making  an  opening  in  the  coil.  They  can  easily  be  made  by  the 
pupils  themselves,  or  enough  for  the  whole  class  can  be  made  by  a  few 
of  the  boys.  A  small  piece  of  bone  (horse  bone  is  beautiful  and  of  a  fine 
texture),  about  four  inches  long,  or  the  handle  of  a  tooth  brush,  with 
one  end  filed  to  a  point,  is  most  satisfactory  and  lasting.  A  piece  of 
wood  (hard  wood  is  preferable),  does  the  work  very  well.  The  point 
must  not  be  sharp  enough  to  cut.  This  sharpened  point  pushed  into  the 

1Tinsley:  "Practical  and  Artistic  Basketry;"  White:  "Baskets  and  How 
to  Make  Them;"  James:  "Indian  Basketry;"  Turner:  "The  Basket  Maker." 


INTRODUCTION  13 

coil  where  the  stitch  is  to  be,  makes  an  opening  thru  which  the  material 
used  for  the  thread  is  drawn.  For  the  small  coiled  work,  where  the 
material  used  for  the  thread  is  pliable,  such  as  raffia,  silkatine,  or  a  fine 
tough  grass,  a  needle  with  an  eye  is  required.  These  needles  should  be 
fairly  large  so  as  not  to  be  easily  lost.  Those  ordinarily  used  for  darn- 
ing, or  "No.  19  Tapestry"  needles  as  used  for  raffia  work,  are  very 
desirable. 

MATERIALS. 

The  great  variety  of  adaptable  vegetable  fibers  allows  for  a  wide 
range  in  the  choice  of  materials.  The  supplies  used  are  mainly  de- 
termined by  the  available  vegetation.  A  little  experimenting  with  the 
necessary  processes  in  handling  these  available  materials  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  excellent  results.  The  great  bulk  of  the  continuous  coiled 
basket  is  made  up  almost  entirely  of  the  coil  itself.  This  can  be  made 
up  of  a  great  variety  of  materials,  such  as  the  tough  rushes  and  grasses 
from  the  marshes  and  meadows,  the  long  and  short  needles  from  the 
pine  trees,  the  stalks  of  the  oats,  rye,  and  wheat,  and  even  the  husk  and 
leaves  of  the  corn,  the  leaves  of  the  cat-tail,  the  flags,  and  the  palmetto 
when  split  up  into  fine  strips.  There  are  very  many  materials  that  can 
be  satisfactorily  used.  Toughness  and  length  are  the  most  desirable 
qualities.  Select  the  toughest  and  longest  vegetable  fibers  that  can 
readily  be  obtained  in  large  quantities.  Avoid,  however,  the  rough  edge 
grasses  as  they  cut  the  hands.  If  rushes  and  grasses  are  not  available, 
the  stalk  of  the  grains — such  as  the  wheat,  oats,  rye  or  the  hay,  can  be 
satisfactorily  used.  Some  one  of  these,  or  the  parts  of  the  corn,  the 
cat-tails,  and  the  flags,  are  available  in  almost  any  locality. 

The  material  for  the  thread  must  be  especially  adaptable  to  the 
basket.  For  sewing  up  the  coils,  a  long,  narrow,  strong,  and  pliable 
substance  is  necessary.  This  we  will  call  the  thread.  For  this  purpose 
the  tough  flat  grasses  are  most  desirable,  and  often  the  skin  bark 
stripped  from  the  palmetto,  or  the  long  leaves  of  the  cat-tail  are  suitable. 
When  a  suitable  material  for  the  thread  cannot  be  obtained  from  the 
neighborhood,  the  commercial  cane  is  best  used.  For  the  various  kinds 
of  baskets  many  other  kinds  of  vegetable  growth  can  be  used;  the  stems 
of  the  maiden  hair  fern  for  a  rich  dark  brown  thread,  the  bark  and  the 
slender  branches  of  trees  such  as  the  cedar,  and  the  red  and  yellow 
willow,  the  splints  made  from  the  oak  and  the  ash,  and  the  bark  and 
stems  of  many  vines  such  as  the  honey  suckle. 


14  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

The  native  materials  gathered  at  any  time  during  the  year  can  be 
used  very  satisfactorily.  However,  they  are  at  their  best  about  the  time 
they  reach  full  maturity  in  the  summer.  Some  are  best  before  maturity 
and  others  when  the  seed  is  ripe.  Study  and  experience  with  the 
available  materials  are  helpful  in  obtaining  the  best  results.  When 
gathered  at  maturity  the  most  of  these  materials  are  tough  and  do  not 
become  brittle  even  when  thoroly  dried  out.  On  account  of  this  pli- 
ability it  is  hardly  necessary  to  dampen  when  starting  a  basket,  as  is 
necessary  with  that  gathered  at  other  times.  The  rush  gathered  at  other 
seasons,  as  in  the  springtime,  can  be  used  satisfactorily ;  but  it  has  not  the 
length  or  toughness  of  the  more  mature  growth.  The  children  can 
readily  bring  in  the  materials  used  in  their  own  baskets,  or  occasional 
parties  can  be  made  up  to  go  out  after  school  hours  or  on  Saturdays. 
Where  it  is  not  feasible  to  gather  the  year's  supply  when  the  growth  is 
mature,  and  where  there  is  freezing  weather  or  continued  wet  spells, 
enough  material  should  be  gathered  to  last  over  these  seasons.  The  use 
of  wagons  for  hauling  the  material,  after  it  is  cut  will  greatly  facilitate 
this  work.  Where  large  baskets  are  made  in  any  numbers,  a  great 
quantity  of  the  material  will.be  required.  A  class  will  often  use  several 
two-horse  wagon  loads  during  the  winter  and  early  spring. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  green  material  be  cured,  that  is  dried  out, 
soon  after  being  gathered,  else  its  color  will  become  dark  and  lifeless, 
and  it  will  be  liable  to  mold.  If  made  into  a  basket  when  green,  besides 
being  apt  to  mold,  the  necessary  shrinking  will  result  in  a  very  loosely 
built  basket  when  it  does  dry  out.  The  material  can  be  quickly  cured 
in  a  few  hours  if  put  over  warm  radiators  or  in  ovens,  but  after  such 
treatment,  altho  suitable  for  building  up  the  sides  of  a  basket,  it  is  rather 
brittle  for  starting  one.  The  drying  out  should  be  slow.  If  the  storage 
space  will  permit,  the  best  plan  is  to  spread  the  freshly  gathered 
materials  on  the  floor  or  on  racks  in  a  fairly  warm  room ;  or  if  con- 
venient set  it  out  in  the  sun  for  a  few  days.  If  light  is  kept  from  the 
green  materials  while  being  cured  a  grayish  color  will  result.  If  the 
pine  needles  are  put  in  strong  sunlight  they  will  become  a  rich  brown 
color,  but  if  all  light  is  excluded  an  ashen  gray  will  be  the  result.  The 
leaves  of  the  palmetto  and  cat-tail  should  be  gathered  before  maturity, 
and  split  into  the  required  widths  before  being  allowed  to  dry.  The 
skin  bark  from  the  stems  of  the  palmetto  should  likewise  be  peeled  off 
before  the  stem  becomes  dry.  If  the  buds  of  the  palmetto  are  separated 


INTRODUCTION  15 

and  allowed  to  dry  and  bleach  in  the  sun,  they  can  be  split  with  a  pin 
into  any  desired  width." 

If  no  native  material  for  the  thread  is  available  it  will  be  necessary 
to  resort  to  the  use  of  raffia  or  cane.  The  cane  is  imported  in  bale  lots 
of  100  bundles,  each  bundle  containing  1,000  feet.  In  the  quality  of 
the  cane,  there  are  four  grades,  from  the  best  down  as  follows:  All 
Long  Selected,  Extra  No.  1,  No.  1,  and  No.  2.  For  ordinary  purposes 
the  No.  1  is  very  satisfactory.  The  size  or  width  runs  as  follows : 
carriage,  superfine,  fine  fine,  fine,  narrow  medium,  medium,  common, 
and  binding.  For  the  small  baskets  the  "superfine"  is  desirable,  while 
for  the  very  large  work  such  as  the  clothes  hamper,  or  laundry  basket, 
the  "common"  or  "binding"  is  required.  If  the  cane  can  be  bought  in 
bale  lots  from  the  importers  in  New  York  City,  San  Francisco,  or  other 
large  cities,  a  great  saving  can  be  effected  over  the  retail  prices.  For 
instance  the  "medium  narrow,"  as  used  in  the  waste  baskets  and  work 
baskets,  from  the  importers  costs  about  $40.00  per  bale  or  at  the  rate  of 
40  cents  per  bundle.  This  from  the  retailers  costs  from  60  to  80  cents 
per  bundle.  The  prices  for  the  same  quality  of  cane  from  the  various 
retail  houses  vary  greatly.  Some  importers  will  furnish  a  bale  made  up 
of  assorted  sizes  as  desired  at  their  regular  bale  prices.  The  prices  at 
wholesale  range  from  about  $25.00  for  the  narrowest  to  about  $50.00 
for  the  widest  size. 

Varnish,  the  last  item  of  maintenance,  altho  not  a  positive  necessity 
adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  and  wearing  qualities  of  the  basket.  It 
protects  it  from  being  soiled,  keeps  it  from  molding  and  preserves  and 
enriches  the  natural  color  of  the  materials. 

When  raffia,  instead  of  native  grasses,  is  used  for  the  sewing  material, 
the  coil,  then  called  the  foundation  material,  is  usually  completely 
covered  by  the  raffia.  This  form  is  very  common  in  school  work  when 
round  reed  or  a  heavy  cord  is  used  for  the  coil.  For  this  work  there 
are  a  variety  of  stitches  in  common  use  such  as  "Navajo,"  "Mariposa," 
"Lazy  Squaw,"  etc.  Since  these  are  described  in  a  number  of  books  on 
basketry,  a  description  of  the  processes  need  not  be  repeated  here.3  The 
opportunity  for  design  with  the  use  of  colored  raffia  is  one  of  the 
advantages  of  this  work.  The  vegetable  dyes  made  from  berries,  barks, 

2Tinsley:     "Practical    and   Artistic   Basketry." 

'Worst's  "Constructive  Work."  Tinsley's  "Practical  and  Artistic  Basketry." 
Knapp's  "Raffia  and  Reed  Weaving."  James'  "Indian  Basket  Making."  White's 
"How  to  Make  Baskets." 


16  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

leaves,  roots,  etc.,  produce  most  beautiful  and  harmonious  colors.  The 
aniline  dyes,  such  as  the  "Diamond"  dye,  are  obtained  with  less  trouble, 
but  great  care  must  be  taken  to  secure  pleasing  harmonies  of  colors. 
Excellent  suggestions  for  dyeing  with  vegetable  dyes  can  be  obtained  in 
some  of  the  books  on  basketry.4  Raffia  comes  in  several  qualities,  the 
price  of  which  varies  but  little.  It  is  imported  in  bales  of  about  220  Ibs. 
made  up  of  hanks  from  two  to  five  pounds  each.  The  natural  color 
raffia  if  obtained  from  the  importers  costs  about  8  cents  per  pound,  but 
is  15  to  25  cents  when  purchased  at  retail.  The  cost  of  the  colored 
raffia  is  much  greater  than  the  natural  raffia.  From  the  importers  in 
lots  of  100  pounds,  10  pounds  to  a  color,  it  can  be  obtained  at  about 
25  cents  per  pound,  at  retail  this  will  cost  from  40  cents  to  $1.00  per 
pound. 

4  Worst's  "Constructive  Work."     White's  "How  to  Make  Baskets."     James^ 
"Indian  Basket  Making." 


II.     PROCESSES  OF  COILED  BASKET  CONSTRUCTION. 

WITH  a  great  variety  of  materials  at  hand  many  baskets  in- 
volving different  processes  can  be  attempted,  such  as  work 
with  braided  rush  and  grasses,  the  woven  work  with  cat-tail, 
splints  or  other  flat  materials,  and  the  work  with  the  weavers  and 
spokes.  However,  in  order  to  give  very  definite  directions  here,  the 
processes  that  immediately  follow  will  deal  only  with  the  continuous 
coil  baskets.  In  all  of  these  coil  baskets  with  the  use  of  the  various 
materials  the  processes  are  essentially  the  same.  With  the  exception 
of  the  starting  the  processes  are  very  simple.  Briefly  they  may  be 
divided  as  follows:  first,  the  starting  (the  forming  of  the  first 
circle  of  the  bottom)  ;  second,  the  adding  of  new  strands  (to  keep 
the  coil  uniform  in  size)  ;  third,  the  regular  stitching  (which  in- 
cludes the  keeping  of  a  uniform  space  between  the  stitches)  ;  fourth, 
the  adding  of  a  new  strand  of  thread  (which  requires  the  tying  of  a 
flat  knot)  ;  fifth,  making  the  turn  and  building  up  the  sides  (according 
to  the  required  design)  ;  sixth,  putting  in  the  handles  (when  necessary)  ; 
seventh,  finishing  off  the  top  (the  ending  up  of  the  last  coil)  ;  eighth, 
polishing  (the  rubbing  in  of  the  varnish). 

The  best  problem  to  begin  the  teaching  of  this  form  of  basketry  is 
the  flat  table  mat  stitched  with  silkatine  or  a  fine  cord.  This  is  because 
the  flat  tying  necessary  in  entering  a  new  strand  of  the  thread  material, 
and  the  turning  up  of  the  side  can  be  eliminated.  The  attention  can 
then  be  directed  simply  to  the  starting,  and  the  keeping  of  the  size  of 
the  coil  and  spaces  between  the  coils  uniform.  The  use  to  which  the 
basket  is  put  will  of  course  determine  the  size  and  shape,  and  the  size 
will  determine  to  some  extent  the  materials  to  be  used  as  well  as  the 
size  of  the  coil  and  the  space  between  the  stitches.  This  regulation 
of  the  size  of  the  coil,  the  spacings,  and  the  stitches  requires  a  very 
definite  training  of  judgment. 

PREPARATION    FOR  THE   STARTING. 

In  starting  a  class  in  this  form  of  basketry  clear  and  positive  dicta- 
tion for  the  first  step  is  necessary.  It  is  a  decided  advantage  to  have 
this  first  step  mastered  by  every  one  in  the  class.  If  the  material  for 

17 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


FIG.    1.      STARTING  THE  COIL.      NEEDLE   AND  MATERIAL  FOR  THREAD  IN   RIGHT  HAND. 


FIG.    2.      STARTING    THE    COIL.       END    OF    THREAD    MATERIAL    INSERTED    BETWEEN 
STRANDS  OF  COIL. 


PROCESSES 


19 


FIG.    3.      STARTING    THE    COIL.       THREAD    MATERIAL    WRAPPED    AROUND    THE    COIL. 


FIG.  4.      STARTING  THE  COIL.     POINT  OF  NEEDLE  THRUST  THRU  THE  COIL  TO  MAKE 
AN   OPENING   FOR  THE  THREAD. 


IN  EX  PEN  SITE  BASKETRY 


FIG.    5.      STARTING   THE    COIL.      SHARPENED    END   OF   THREAD    INSERTED    IN    OPENING 
MADE  BY   NEEDLE. 


FIG.  6.     STARTING  THE  COIL — THE  TIE 


PROCESSES  21 

the  coil  is  not  pliable  the  strands  used  to  begin  the  basket  must  be 
dampened.  If  they  are  stiff  and  brittle  it  will  be  impossible  to  bend 
them  into  a  good  shape.  The  number  of  strands  to  make  up  the  coil 
is  determined  by  the  size  of  the  basket.  A  small  basket  such  as  the 
lunch  basket,  collar  box,  or  table  tray  will  of  course  require  few  strands 
of  the  material  (perhaps  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter),  while  the 
large  clothes  hamper  will  require  a  large  coil  (perhaps  three-quarters 
or  one  inch  in  diameter).  To  start  with,  and  until  the  first  circle  is 
completed,  the  coil  should  be  less  than  full  size  (about  two-thirds), 
else  the  center  will  be  somewhat  hard  to  round  up  into  good  shape. 

Hold  these  strands,  suitable  for  starting,  in  the  left  hand  with  the 
long  free  ends  pointed  away  from  the  worker,  as  shown  in  the  illus- 
trations. Hold  the  needle  and  the  material  for  the  thread  with  one 
end  sharpened  in  the  right  hand,  as  in  Fig.  1  ;  now  slip  the  end  of  the 
thread,  that  has  not  been  sharpened,  in  between  the  strands  of  the  coil, 
as  in  Fig.  2.  Then  wrap  the  thread  two  or  three  strands  around  the 
coil,  as  in  Fig.  3.  Three  strands  around  should  be  used  in  the  large 
baskets  as  it  makes  the  coil  very  much  firmer  and  less  liable  to  come 
loose  when  making  the  first,  stitches.  To  make  the  tie,  which  is  really 
the  first  stitch,  make  an  opening  for  the  thread  by  forcing  the  point  of 
the  needle  in  thru  the  middle  of  the  coil.  Let  the  point  of  the  needle 
protrude  from  the  side  of  the  coil  past  the  loop  of  thread,  as  in  Fig.  4. 
In  doing  this  the  thread  must  be  kept  taut,  else  it  will  come  apart 
easily  and  have  to  be  re-arranged.  Put  the  sharpened  point  of  the 
thread  thru  this  opening,  as  in  Fig.  5,  and  pull  it  up  tight,  as  in  Fig. 
6.  The  tie  (the  first  stitch),  is  now  completed.  Occasionally  a  be- 
ginner will  take  this  stitch  from  the  wrong  direction,  backward,  as  in 
Fig.  7,  which  makes  it  impossible  to  proceed  further  until  this  mistake 
is  corrected. 

THE   STITCHES  TO  COMPLETE  THE   FIRST  CIRCLE. 

The  second  stitch  is  made  almost  like  the  first.  Force  the  point 
of  the  needle  inside  the  loop  of  thread  at  the  side  of  the  coil,  as  in 
Fig.  8.  Put  the  thread  thru  this  opening  and  pull  it  up  tight,  as  in 
Fig.  9.  Notice  that  the  thread  is  looped  around  the  coil  a  little  distance 
from  the  first  tie.  In  pulling  it  taut  a  slight  curve  of  the  coil  is  pro- 
duced. A  mistake  frequently  made  is  to  loop  the  thread  around  the 
coil  at  a  distance  too  far  from  the  first  tie,  as  in  Fig.  10. 

The  third  stitch  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  the  second  one.  The 
thread  is  entered  alongside  the  previous  stitch,  but  in  pulling  the  thread 


22 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


FIG.    7.       THE    WRONG   WAY   TO    MAKE    THE    TIE. 


FIG.    8.       INSERTING      THE      NEEDLE. 


FIG.    9.       MAKING    THE    TIE. 


FIG.    10.      THE   SECOND  LOOP   OF  THE   THREAD  TOO   FAR   FROM   THE    FIRST    MAKING 
THE    COIL    CURVE    TOO    ABRUPTLY. 


PROCESSES 


23 


FIG.    11.      SHOWING   POSITION'   OF  THIRD  LOOP   IN   RELATION   TO  ONE   AND   TWO. 


FIG.    12.      THE    FOURTH   LOOP  AND  THE 
END    OF   THE    COIL   TURNED   UP. 


FIG.    14.      NEEDLE   IN  POSITION  TO  TAKE 
LAST  STITCH  FROM  THE  CENTER. 


24  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

up  tight  it  is  held  with  the  forefinger,  so  that  it  loops  itself  around 
the  coil  a  little  farther  from  the  second  stitch,  as  in  Fig.  11.  By 
pulling  and  keeping  the  thread  taut  the  tendency  will  be  to  curve  the 
coil  around  preparatory  for  the  first  circle.  This  curving  should  be 


FIG.    13.      THE  COIL   AFTER  THE    FOURTH   STITCH. 

helped  along  somewhat  by  bending  with  the  fingers.  The  next  stitch 
is  entered  alongside  of  the  previous  one  (this  is  important)  and  looped 
a  little  farther  around  on  the  coil,  as  can  be  seen  in  Fig.  12.  The 
pulling  of  the  thread  taut  will  now  tend  to  bring  the  short  ends  of  the 
coil  up  at  right  angles  with  what  is  to  be  the  bottom  surface  of  the 
basket.  The  gradual  turning  up  of  these  ends  can  be  noticed  in  Figs. 
1 1  to  15.  These  ends,  the  projecting  part  of  which  are  later  cut  off 
even  with  the  bottom  surface  of  the  basket,  form  the  very  center  of 
the  basket  as  shown  in  the  illustrations.  By  repeating  this  stitch  six 
or  eight  times,  always  entering  each  stitch  alongside  of  the  previous 
stitch  and  always  looping  each  successive  stitch  a  little  farther  around 
on  the  coil  from  the  starting  point,  the  first  circle  of  the  basket  will 
be  complete.  Fig.  13  shows  the  progress  made  after  the  fourth  stitch 
is  taken,  and  Fig.  14  shows  the  needle  in  position  ready  to  take  the  last 
stitch  from  the  center.  Our  first  step  is  now  completed. 


PROCESSES  25 

MAKING   THE   REGULAR  STITCHES. 

As  soon  as  the  first  circle  is  completed  it  is  well  to  add  a  few 
strands  to  the  coil.  By  continually  adding  a  few  strands  as  the  work 
progresses,  the  coil  should  be  gradually  built  up  until  the  desired  size 
is  attained,  and  then  continued  by  adding  just  enough  strands  to  keep 
it  of  an  even  size. 

After  completing  the  first  circle  the  stitches  of  the  second  circle  will 
cross  to,  or  be  caught  upon  the  adjoining  stitches  already  made  in  the 
first  circle.  Fig.  15  shows  the  needle  in  position  for  the  first  stitch 
after  leaving  the  center,  and  Fig.  16  shows  this  first  stitch  pulled  up 
tight.  Notice  here  and  in  other  illustrations  how  the  thread  strand 
crosses  the  adjoining  stitch  on  the  inner  circle.  This  crossing  (or 
catching)  avoids  any  danger  of  getting  loose  or  slipping.  Notice  also 
that  the  thread  is  passed  not  on  the  outside  of  the  coil  but  thru  the 
middle  of  it.  This  kind  of  stitch,  continued  until  the  basket  is  com- 
pleted, is  simply  made  by  forcing  the  point  of  the  needle  about  midway 
between  the  part  of  the  coil  adjoining  and  thru  the  stitch  crossing  it, 
as  shown  in  Figs.  15  and  16.  When  the  second  or  third  stitch  of  the 
second  circle  is  made  the  projecting  ends  can  be  trimmed  off  even  with 
the  bottom  surface  of  the  basket,  as  in  Fig.  17. 

UNIFORM    SPACING    OF    STITCHES. 

The  space  between  the  stitches  will  be  governed  by  the  size  of  the 
basket.  Toward  the  center  the  stitches  will  necessarily  be  close  to- 
gether; but  as  they  radiate  from  the  center,  the  circle  becoming  larger, 
the  stitches  will  get  farther  apart.  Whenever  the  spaces  between  the 
stitches  grow  wider  than  they  should  be,  the  number  of  stitches  must 
be  increased.  If  the  number  of  stitches  is  doubled  in  the  making  of  one 
circle  around,  that  is,  if  an  etxra  stitch  is  taken  at  every  regular  space 
between  stitches  on  the  inner  circle  they  will  be  somewhat  too  close 
together.  An  extra  stitch  taken  at  every  other  (alternate)  space,  for 
two  complete  circles  only,  will  double  the  number  of  stitches,  and  at  the 
same  time  make  the  spaces  more  evenly  divided.  Fig.  18  shows  the 
stitches  in  the  process  of  being  increased.  Another  half  circle  around 
will  complete  the  doubling  up  process.  Since  these  extra  stitches  are 
not  caught  upon  stitches  of  the  inner  adjoining  circle,  the  spaces  are 
likely  to  become  uneven.  If  this  happens  they  must  be  arranged  evenly 
with  the  fingers.  This  process  of  doubling  the  number  of  stitches  will 
have  to  be  repeated  a  number  of  times  before  the  bottom  is  completed. 


26 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


FIG.    15.      NEEDLE   IN    POSITION   FOR   FIRST  STITCH   AFTER   LEAVING   THE    CENTER. 


FIG.    16.     THE   STITCH    PULLED   UP  TIGHT. 


PROCESSES 


27 


FIG.    17.      PROJECTING  ENDS  AT  CENTER  TRIMMED  OFF  EVEN   WITH   BOTTOM   SURFACE 
OF  BASKET. 


FIG.    18.      METHOD     OF    INSERTING     EXTRA     STITCHES. 


28 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


FIG.    19.      BOTTOM   OF  BASKET  COMPLETED,   SHOWING   SPACING   OF  STITCHES. 


FIG.   20.      THE    FLAT-LOOP    KNOT. 


PROCESSES  29 

as  shown  in  Fig.  19.  Special  care  must  be  taken  that  the  spaces  between 
the  stitches  are  very  regular  and  of  right  width,  just  before  turning  up 
the  sides  of  the  basket;  for  it  is  this  spacing  that  must  continue  all  the 
way  up  the  sides  of  the  basket.  See  Figs.  23  and  24.  The  thread  must 
be  kept  drawn  taut  always  if  a  solid  firm  basket  is  to  be  obtained.  If 
the  coils  are  held  in  correct  position  with  reference  to  each  other  the 
bottom  of  the  basket  can  be  made  perfectly  flat. 

TYING  ON  A  NEW  STRAND  OF  THREAD. 

When  entering  a  new  piece  of  thread  a  loop  knot  perfectly  flat  is 
desired,  as  in  Fig.  20.  This  knot  is  very  simply  made.  The  first  step 
of  this  knot  is  shown  in  Fig.  21.  The  new  strand  of  thread  is  shown 
black  for  the  sake  of  clearness.  Slip  one  end  of  the  new  thread  thru  the 
middle  of  the  coil  next  to  the  last  stitch  taken.  This  must  cross  the 
stitch  of  the  inner  circle  as  shown  in  Fig.  21.  The  short  end  of  this 
new  thread  is  then  slipped  under  the  last  stitch  taken,  on  the  outer 
circle  as  shown.  Notice  that  this  free  end  is  pointed  away  from  the  free 
ends  of  the  coil.  This  end  is  not  pulled  up  tight  but  a  loop  is  left 
formed  between  the  inner  and  outer  circles  of  the  coil.  The  next  step 
to  complete  the  tie  is  shown  in  Fig.  22.  First  bend  back  and  slip  thru 
this  loop  the  end  of  the  new  thread  pointing  inward.  Then  the  end  of 
the  old  thread  which  has  been  held  on  the  outside  of  the  circle,  as  seen 
in  Fig.  21,  is  brought  back  between  the  inner  and  outer  circles  and 
entered  also  thru  this  loop  pointing  outward.  Fig.  22  shows  this  done 
and  ready  to  be  pulled  up  tight.  This  is  done  simply  by  pulling  on  the 
long  end  of  the  new  thread.  The  result  should  be  a  perfectly  flat  knot 
as  in  Fig.  20.  With  a  little  care  this  can  be  pulled  down  between  the 
coils  so  as  to  be  hidden  from  view. 


MAKING  THE  TURN. 

The  turning  up  of  the  basket  is  made  by  holding  the  coil  in  the 
desired  position  and  fastening  it  there  by  pulling  the  thread  up  tight,  as 
in  Fig.  23.  Any  desired  shape  can  be  built  up  in  this  way.  A  perfectly 
square  corner  can  be  made  if  desired  by  simply  fastening  the  coil  directly 
on  top  or  at  right  angles  to  the  bottoin  of  the  basket. 


30 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


FIG.   21.      FIRST   STEP    IN    TYING   THE    KNOT. 


FIR.    22.      THE    KNOT  READY  TO   BE    PULLED   UP  TIGHT. 


PROCESSES 


31 


FIG.    23.      STARTING    TO    BUILD    UP    THE    SIDE    OF    THE    BASKET. 


FIG.  24.     BUILDING  UP  THE  SIDE  OF  THE  BASKET. 


32  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

BUILDING    UP    THE    SIDES. 

To  secure  a  good,  smooth,  even  shape  to  the  sides,  practice  and  care 
are  necessary.  If  the  outline  is  not  shaping  up  in  just  the  desired  way, 
if  it  is  turning  in  or  out  too  quickly,  it  is  necessary  to  tear  down  the 
few  coils  that  are  wrong  and  then  correct  to  the  desired  shape.  To 
try  to  correct  it  by  forcing  it  into  shape  without  rebuilding  the  coils 
that  are  wrong  will  result  in  a  badly  shaped  basket. 


FIG.  2S.     COM-PLETED  BASKET. 

When  handles  are  needed  they  must  be  spliced  in  where  desired 
when  the  basket  is  being  built  up.  They  should  stand  any  amount  of 
hard  pulling.  If  great  care  is  not  taken  they  will  in  time  pull  out. 
They  must  be  so  well  spliced  that  only  by  tearing  out  the  coils  of  the 
basket  will  it  be  possible  to  loosen  them.  For  the  large  baskets  a  rope 
or  heavy  cord  woven  in  with  the  rush  running  completely  around  the 
basket  is  sometimes  desirable. 


PROCESSES 


33 


34 


INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 


PROCESSES  35 

When  the  basket  is  built  up  to  the  desired  height  simply  let  the  rush 
run  out  without  entering  any  new  strands,  and  the  top  will  be  finished 
level.  It  is  well  to  reinforce  the  top  with  a  double  stitch.  This  is  made 
by  running  an  extra  circle  of  stitches  all  the  way  around,  backwards, 


FIG.   28.      PART  OF  WORK  OF  ONE   SCHOOL,  THIRD   TO  SIXTH   YEAR. 


that  is  in  the  direction  opposite  to  that  in  which  the  basket  was  stitched 
up.  This  double  stitch  can  be  seen  clearly  in  Fig.  25.  The  last  end  of 
the  thread  is  fastened  by  simply  running  the  thread  back  in  and  out 
again  several  times  close  to  where  the  last  stitch  was  taken.  This  makes 
a  very  secure  tie. 

The  polishing  is  the  rubbing  in  with  a  stiff  brush  of  one  or  two  coats 
of  ordinary  varnish.  Altho  this  is  not  necessary  it  is  very  desirable 
because  it  increases  the  strength  and  serviceability  as  well  as  greatly 
enhances  the  appearance  of  the  basket. 


III.     OUTLINE. 
COILED  BASKET  WORK. 

I.  Problem  for  grades. 

Third  Grade.      1.  Table  Mat.     Fig.  26. 

2.  Tray  for  carrying  glasses.     Fig.  26. 

Fourth  Grade.     1.  Work  Basket.     Fig.  26. 

2.  Collar  Basket  or  Box  with  lid.    Fig.  26*. 

3.  Nut  Holder.     Fig.  26.     (Supplementary.) 

4.  Fruit  Tray.     Fig.  26.     (Supplementary.) 

5.  Serving  Tray.     Fig.  26. 
Fifth  Grade.        1.  Trash  Basket.    Figs.  26,  27. 

2.  Collar  Box.    Fig.  26. 

3.  Jardiniere.     Fig.  26.      (Supplementary.) 

4.  Paper  Basket  for  desk.     Fig.  26.      (Supple- 

mentary. ) 
Sixth  Grade.         1.     Laundry  Hamper  for  soiled  clothes.     Fig.  25. 

2.  Trinket  or  Jewelry  Basket.     Fig.  26.     (Sup- 

plementary. ) 

3.  Collar  Box.    Fig.  26.     (Supplementary.) 

4.  Lunch  Basket.     Fig.  25.     (Supplementary.) 

5.  Hanging  Flower   Basket.      (Supplementary.) 

II.  Sizes  of  Problems. 

1.  Clothes    Hamper    or    Laundry    Basket.       18"x20"    diam., 

24"x26"  high— large  coil. 

2.  Work  Basket.    9"xlO"  diam.,  3"x3f"  high— medium  coil. 

3.  Fruit  Tray.     10"xl2"  diam.,  \\"  high— medium  coil. 

4.  Trash   or  Waste-Paper   Basket.      10"xll"    diam.,    12"xl3" 

high — medium  coil. 

5.  Serving  Tray.     14"xl5"  diam.,   l"xl£"  high — medium  coil. 

6.  Desk  Basket.     8"x9"  diam.,  5"x6"  high— medium  coil. 

7.  Table  Mat.    6"xl2"  diam.,— fine  coil. 

8.  Tray  for  carrying  glasses.     6"x7"  diam.,  £"x£"  high — fine 

coil. 

9.  Trinket  or  Jewelry  Basket.    5"x6"  diam.,  2£"x3"  high— fine 

coil. 


36 


OUTLINE  37 

10.  Collar  Box  with  lid.    6"x7"  diam.,  3"x4"  high— fine  coil. 

11.  Lunch  Basket  with  lid.     7"x8"  diam.,  4"x5"  high— fine  coil. 

12.  Collection  Basket.     7"x8"  diam.,  2"x2|"  high— fine  coil. 
III.     Sizes  of  details  and  materials. 

1.  Spacing. 

About  1"  space  between  stitches  with  large  coil. 
About  f "  space  between  stitches  with  medium  coil. 
About  f "  or  \"  space  between  stitches  with  fine  coil. 
The  size  of  the  coil  will  regulate  the  space  between  the  stitches. 

2.  Coils. 

Large  coils  about  f "  or  f "  diameter. 
Medium  coils  about  f "  or  y  diameter. 
Fine  coils  about  \"  or  y%"  diameter. 

3.  Materials. 

Use  binding  cane  or  material  of  similar  strength  with  large 

coils. 
Use  medium  narrow  cane  or  material  of  similar  strength  with 

medium  coil. 
Use  superfine  cane  or  silkatine  with  fine  coils. 


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extensive  discussion  on  the   activity   and  development  of  motor  areas  of  the 

brain  during  childhood. 

38 


REFERENCES  39 

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Hall,  G.  Stanley:  Some  Criticisms  of  Manual  Training  and  Physics  with  Sug- 
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Boston.     1911.     $1.25. 
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Morse,  Mrs.  T.  Vernette,  Basket  Making.     Chicago,  Art  Craft  Instiute,  '02. 
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Newton,  B.  E.,  Some  Pretty  May  Baskets.  Ladies'  Home  Journal,  27:73, 
May,  '10. 

Pasch,  Katharine,  Basketry  and  Weaving  in  the  School.  Chicago,  A.  Flana- 
gan, 1904,  $0.25. 

Pepper,  George  H.,  The  Ancient  Basket  Makers  of  Southeastern  Utah.  Bulletin 
American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  suppl.,  Vol.  II,  No.  IV,  April,  1902. 

Prudden,  T.  M.,  The  Basket  Makers.     Harper's,  95:56. 

Purdy,  Carl,  Poma  Indian  Baskets  and  Their  Makers.  Los  Angeles,  1902. 

Riley,  Mary  L.,  Basketry  Among  the  Indians.     Era,   12:391-403,  Nov.  '03. 

Roth,  Walter  E.,  String  and  Other  Forms  of  Strand:  Basketry-,  Woven  Bag-, 
and  Net-Work.  Queensland,  Home  Secretary's  Dept.,  Bulletin  No.  1. 

Sanford,  Frank  G.,  Art  Crafts  for  Beginners.  Contains  chapter  on  "Bas- 
ketry," 1904,  $1.00. 

Seegmiller,  Wilhelmina,  Clever  Basketry  for  Summer  Work.  Ladies'  Home 
Journal,  22:29,  Aug.,  '05. 

Shults,  Mary  A.,  Reed  and  Raffia  Construction  Work  in  Primary  Sc/iools. 
American  Kindergarten  Supply  House,  1904. 

Stearns,  Martha  W.,  A  School  Without  Books.  Review  &  Herald  Pub.  Co., 
Battle  Creek,  Mich. 

Stickley,  Gustav,  Willow  Baskets  That  Show  the  True  Spirit  of  Handicraft. 
Craftsman,  18:262,  May,  '10. 

Swannell,  M.,  Coiled  Basketry.     London,  G.  Phillip  &  Son,  1909,  $1.00. 

Tinsley,  Mrs.  Laura  Rollins,  Practical  and  Artistic  Basketry.  New  York, 
Kellogg,  1904,  $1.00. 

Turner,  Luther  W.,  The  Basket  Maker.  Worcester,  Mass.,  Davis  Press, 
1909,  $1.00. 


44  INEXPENSIVE  BASKETRY 

Walker,  Louise,  Varied  Occupations  in  Weaving.  New  York,  MacMillan, 
1895,  $1.00. 

Walter,  M.  Louise,  Lesson  in  Basket-Making.  Ladies'  Home  Journal,  20:25, 
Aug.,  '03. 

White,  Mary,  How  to  Make  Baskets.  New  York,  Doubleday,  Page  &  Co., 
1901,  $1.00. 

More  Baskets  and  How  to  Make   Them.     New  York,  Doubleday, 

Page  &  Co.,  1903,  $1.00. 

Basket-Making  at  Home.     London,  C.  A.  Pearson,  1903,  $0.50. 

Wooden  and  Willow  Ware  Trade  Review.  Devoted  to  wodenware,  wood- 
working, rattan,  reed  and  willow-ware,  baskets,  brooms  and  broom-corn,  etc; 
New  York,  Cordage  Trade  Journal,  semi-monthly. 

Woods,  L.  B.  S.,  How  Indian  Baskets  are  Made.  Delineator,  63:1050-52, 
Feb.,  '04. 

Worst,  Edward  F.,  (assisted  by  Harriette  Barber  and  Marian  Seymour). 
Constructive  Work'.  Its  Relation  to  Number,  Literature,  History,  and  Nature 
Work.  Chicago,  A.  W.  Mumford,  1905,  $1.00. 


MANUAL  TRAINING   REPRINTS 

The  persistent  demand  for  certain  numbers  of  the  MANUAL  TRAINING 
MAGAZINE  has  made  it  evident  to  the  publishers  that  some  of  the  articles  in 
these  numbers  ought  to  be  reprinted  and  sold  at  such  a  price  as  will  enable 
teachers  to  purchase  them  in  quantities  for  use  in  their  classes.  Moreover,  it 
is  believed  that  from  time  to  time  in  the  future,  the  Magazine  will  publish 
articles  which,  owing  to  their  special  value,  ought  to  be  reprinted  soon  after 
they  appear  in  the  Magazine. 

To  supply  this  evident  need  the  Manual  Training  Reprints  are  being  issued 
at  irregular  intervals.  Two  series  of  these  reprints  have  been  planned,  as 
follows : 

Series  A. — Illustrated   articles   of  special   practical   value  for  class   use. 

Series  B. — Discussions  having  special,  permanent  value,  or  such  as  supply 
needed  data  to  directors  of  manual  training  and  to  students  preparing  tn 
become  teachers. 

REPRINTS  NOW   READY   FOR   DISTRIBUTION. 
SERIES  A. 

No.  1.  The  Construction  and  Flying  of  Kites.  By  C.  M.  Miller,  Assistant 
Supervisor  of  Manual  Training,  Los  Angeles,  California.  Price  20  cents. 

No.  2.  Coping  Saw  Work.  By  Ben  W.  Johnson,  Supervisor  of  Manual 
Training,  Seattle,  Washington.  Price  20  cents. 

No.  3.  Selected  Shop  Problems.  By  George  A.  Seaton,  Director  of  Manual 
Training,  Shaw  High  School,  Cleveland,  Ohio.  Price  20  cents. 

No.  4.  Inexpensive  Basketry.  By  William  S.  Marten,  Department  of 
Manual  Arts,  High  School,  San  Jose,  California.  Price  25  cents. 


45 


Books  on  the  Manual  Arts 


CLAY  WORK.     By  Katherine  M.  Lester. 

This  book  was  written  by  a  grade  teacher  and  art  worker  to  help  teachers 
in  acquiring  the  technique  of  clay  working,  and  to  give  them  suggestions  con- 
cerning the  teaching  of  the  several  types  of  clay  work  suited  to  pupils  in  the 
elementary  schools.  It  covers  the  study  of  natural  forms,  the  human  figure  in 
relief,  and  the  round,  animal  forms,  story  illustration,  architectural  ornament, 
tiles,  hand-built  pottery,  and  pottery  decoration.  The  book  is  richly  illustrated 
with  more  than  fifty  half-tone  and  line  cuts  showing  processes,  designs,  and  the 
work  of  children  from  ten  to  twelve  years  of  age.  Price,  $1.00. 

HANDICRAFT  FOR  GIRLS.    By  Idabelle  McGlauflin. 

A  handbook  for  teachers,  detailing  a  five-years'  course  in  sewing  for  girls  in 
the  public  schools.  Chapters  on  stitches,  fibers  and  fabrics,  cloth  and  cardboard 
construction,  basketry,  dress  in  its  relation  to  art,  and  home  furnishings.  It  is 
definite  enough  to  be  thoroly  practical  and  elastic  enough  to  suit  the  varied 
conditions  in  rural,  village  or  city  schools.  Price,  $1.00. 

COPING  SAW  WORK.    By  Ben.  W.  Johnson 

Contains  working  drawings  and  suggestions  for  teaching  a  course  of  work  in 
thin  wood  that  is  full  of  fun  for  the  children,  and  affords  ample  means  for 
training  in  form  study,  construction,  invention  and  careful  work.  Has  been  called 
"applied  mechanics  for  the  fourth  grade".  Price,  20  cents. 

SELECTED  SHOP  PROBLEMS.     By  George  A.  Seaton. 

A  collection  of  sixteen  problems  in  woodworking  made  to  meet  the  needs  of 
busy  teachers  of  manual  training.  Each  problem  has  been  put  to  the  test  and 
has  proven  satisfactory  to  the  teacher  who  designed  it  and  to  the  pupil  who 
made  it.  Price,  20  cents. 

MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS.     By  Harris  W.  Moore. 

A  popular  boys'  book  that  is  truly  educational.  The  book  contains  in  pages 
and  thirty-five  full-page  plates  of  working  drawings  illustrating  42  projects.  All 
of  the  projects  are  overflowing  with  "boy"  interest,  are  well  adapted  to  the 
upper  grades  of  th«  elementary  school  and  are  new  in  the  manual  training  shop. 
The  text  treats  of  tools  and  tool  processes  and  gives  instructions  for  making 
each  project.  Price,  $1.00. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION  AND  FLYING  OF  KITES. 
By  Charles  M.  Miller. 

This  book  contains  seven  full-page  plates  of  drawings  of  kites  and  fifteen 
figures — over  forty  kites  shown.  It  gives  the  details  of  construction  and  describes 
a  kite  tournament.  Full  of  interesting  suggestions.  Price,  20  cents. 

BEGINNING  WOODWORK,  At  Home  and  in  School. 
By  Clinton  S.  Van  Deusen. 

A  full  and  clear  description  in  detail  of  the  fundamental  processes  of  elementary 
benchwork  in  wood.  This  description  is  given  through  directions  for  making  a 
few  simple,  useful  articles,  suitable  either  for  school  or  home  problems.  The 
book  contains  more  than  one  hundred  original  sketches  and  ten  working  drawings. 
Price,  $1.00. 

"Books    on    the    Manual    Arts",    a    descriptive    catalog    listing    and    describing    all    the 
standard  books,  and  the  best  of  the  recent  publications,  free  on   request. 

The  Manual  Arts  Press,  Peoria,  111. 


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